Mechanism for marking and cutting trousers



Nov. 10, 1953 G. R. MGALLASTER MEcHANIsM FOR MARKING AND CUTTING TROUSERS 5 Sheets-Sheet l Filed Sept. 30, 1950 ATTORNEY Nov. l0, 1953 G. R. MGALLASTER MECHANISM FOR MARKING AND CUTTING TROUSERS Filed sept. so, 195o 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Nov. l0, 1953 G. R. MCALLASTER MECHANTSM FOR MARKING AND CUTTING TROUSERS 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed Sept. 30, 1950 Nov. l0, 1953 G. R. MGALLASTER 2,658,276

MEcHANrsM RoR MARKING AND CUTTING TRousaRs Filed sept. so, 195o s sheets-sheet 4 George R. mcd/lader' ATTORNEY NOV. 10, 1953 G, R MCALLASTER 2,658,276

MECHANISM FOR MARKING AND CUTTING TROUSERS 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed Sept. 30, 1950 37 '46 47 /87 2-05 2.01m(7 2.17 ,ql

IBI 2.47 l, \l 22,5

l l I l l l I l l I I" am INVENTOR.

George.4 mc/asfer Numa/@u Z 7l ATTORNEY Patented Nov. 1U, 1953 AUNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE MECHANISM FOR MARKING AND CUTTING TROUSERS George R. McAllaster, Rochester, N. Y.

Application September 30, 1950, Serial No. 187,762

'7 Claims. (Cl. 33-32) The present invention relates to the art of tailoring, and more particularly to that branch of the art which deals with the making of trousers.

It is customary in the manufacture of trousers, particularly those of the ready made variety, to make the trousers initially of the maximum length decidedupon by the manufacturer, and to leave the bottom ends unnished when the trousers are supplied to the retail store. Then when the customer purchases the trousers, the tailor at the store makes the necessary-measurements of the customers body, on the basis of which measurements the alterations shop at the store finishes the trousers to the proper length for that particular customer, the nishing operation usually including the formation of cuffs at the lower ends of the trouser legs. The finishing involves the transverse cutting of the trouser legs at the proper point, and, in addition, when cuifs are to be formed, it involves the marking of two chalk lines transversely across both sides of both trouser legs, spaced upwardly from the cutting line, which chalk lines are the lines on which the material is folded in order to make the desired cuffs. If the cutting is to be performed by hand shears, a third chalk line must be drawn on both sides of both legs of the trousers, to form a guide line for cutting.

An object of the present invention is the provision of simple and effective mechanism for marking the required chalk lines at the proper positions on the trouser legs, more expeditiously than can be done by the conventional hand methods.

Another object is the provision of mechanism for drawing both of the needed chalk lines, on both sides of both legs of the trousers, during a single cycle of operation of the mechanism.

Still another object is the provision of mechanism which, in addition to marking the necessary chalk lines for folding the material will, during the same cycle of operation, preferably cut the trouser legs transversely at the proper points with relation to the chalk lines, so as to remove the excess material, and so as to avoid the necessity for drawing' a separate chalk line at the place Where the cloth is to be cut.

A further object is the provision of mechanism having some or all of the above mentioned desirable characteristics, which is at the same time sufciently inexpensive to be economically feasible for use in ready made clothing stores of moderate size, and suiiiciently simple to be operated readily and eiciently by comparatively inexperience employees of such stores.

These and other objects are accomplished by the construction disclosed as an illustrative embodiment of the invention in the following description and in the accompanying drawings forming a part hereof, in which:

Fig. 1 is a plan of the left hand portion of a machine in accordance with a preferred embodiment of the present invention, with the parts in open position ready to receive the legs of a pair of trousers to be marked;

Fig. 2 is a similar view of the right hand portion of the same machine, being a rightward continuation of Fig. 1, with some overlap;

Fig. 3 is a vertical section taken substantially on the line 3 3 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a front elevation of the parts shown in Fig. 2, and constitutes essentially a rightward continuation of the structure shown in Fig. 3, with some overlap;

Fig. 5 is a plan similar to Fig. 1, but showing the parts in closed position to clamp the legs of the pair of trousers to be marked, and with the shuttle moved leftwardly from its normal rest position, to eiect the marking;

Fig. 6 is a vertical section taken approximately on the line 6--6 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 7 is a. vertical section taken substantially on the line 1--1 of Fig. 5, illustrating the construction of an expansion hinge or compensating hinge constituting part of the apparatus;

Fig. 8 is a side elevation of the left hand portion of the machine as the parts are being released after a marking operation, illustrating the means for holding the marking chalks out of contact with the trouser legs during the return movement of the shuttle to normal rest position;

Fig. 9 is a plan on a larger scale of the lower part of the shuttle, illustrating details of the chalk holders and of the means for holding the trousers away from the chalk during the return stroke.

Fig. 10 is a vertical section taken approximately on the line Ill-l0 of Fig. 9;

Fig. 11 is a view partly in plan and partly in horizontal section through the parts shown in Fig. 10, to illustrate additional details;

Fig. 12 is a transverse section taken approximately on the line IZ-I 2 of Fig. 5; and

Fig. 13 is a diagrammatic view of the lower end of one leg of a pair of trousers in unfinished condition, to illustrate the chalk lines marked by the present machine and the cut made by the present machine` The same reference numerals throughout the several views indicate the same parts.

To give first a brief outline of the major features of the construction as an aid to quick comprehension of the invention, the present construction may be said to include, in general, (l) clamping means by which both legs of a pair of trousers may be suitably clamped in fixed position, the clamping means preferably being part of or being associated with a table forming a convenient supporting surface for the trousers; (2) a shuttle having two parts connected to each other, the lower part of the shuttle moving back and forth below the clamped legs of the trousers and the upper part of the shuttle moving back and forth above the clamped legs of the trousers; (3) suitable chalk holding means for securing two marking chalks to the lower part of the shuttle and two marking chalks to the upper part of the shuttle, so that upon a single traverse of the shuttle across the clamped legs of the trousers, two chalk lines will be drawn across the under surfaces of both legs of the trousers and two chalk lines will concomitantly be drawn across the upper surfaces of both legs of the trousers; (4) guard means for holding the cloth of the trousers slightly away from the path of travel of the chalks during the return stroke or restoring movement of the shuttle, to avoid smudging of the lines previously drawn on the forward stroke and to avoid any possibility of the chalks catching on the edges of the trousers during the return stroke; and (5) a motor driven cutting blade mounted on the shuttle or on a separate carriage operatively connected to the shuttle, to cut off the surplus cloth from the lower ends of both legs of the trousers as the shuttle makes its stroke. The foregoing brief outline refers to the mechan ism in its complete and preferred form, and is not to be construed as a statement of the minimum essential parts of the invention, for obviously it is within the broad scope of the invention to use some of these features without others (although the conjoint employment of all of these features is preferred at present) and it is also within the scope of the invention to make substantial variations in the details of each one of these features.

These features above mentioned will now be described under appropriate headings for the sake of quick and easy reference.

Clamping Means Referring now to the drawings, and especially to Figs. 1, 3, 5, 7, and l2, the clamping means comprises a lower clamping assembly, mainly of stationary parts, and an upper clamping assembly movable down onto the lower clamping assembly to clamp the trousers between them. The lower assembly includes a pair of lower clamping bars 2| and 23, each of an elongated nature and laterally spaced from each other on a supporting base 25. The rear clamping bar is preferably of hollow or channel-like metal construction, and may conveniently be secured to the base 25 by bolts l2`| extending through the base and through holding blocks 29 within the hollow parts of the clamping member, so that by loosening the bolts 21. the bar 2| may be slightly adjusted toward or away from the bar 23.

The lateral spacing between the two clamping members is Yfor the purpose of providing space for operation of the lower part of the shuttle, to

mark the chalk lines on rthe lower surfaces of the trousers while being held in the clamping means. When the trousers are being laid in the clamping means preparatory to marking and cutting, however, there might be some accidental sagging of the trousers into this space between the clamping members 2| and 23, and so it is desired to close this space temporarily, so as to provide a substantially continuous and smooth surface on which the trousers may be laid. For this purpose, there is placed between the two clamping members 2| and 23 a movable supporting plate 3| (Fig. 3) supported from beneath by a pair of link arms 33 parallel to each other as shown, and constantly urged by a coil tension spring 35 in a direction rightwardly when viewed as in Fig. 3, until the right hand one of the arms 33 hits against a limiting stop 31 preventing further rightward movement. In this position of the parts the top surface of the supporting member 3| is substantially flush with the top surfaces of the clamping members 2| and 23, so as to increase the supporting area available for holding the trouser legs when they are first placed in the mechanism. However, when the marking and cutting shuttle moves in its stroke from right to left when viewed as in Fig. 3 it will, as explained hereafter, contact with the right end of this supporting member 3| and move this supporting member leftwardly against the tension of its spring 35 until this supporting member assumes the lower or dotted line position shown in Fig. 3, whereupon the shuttle rides over this supporting member. When the shuttle is retracted, the spring 35 restores the supporting member upwardly to its initial position.

The supporting member 3| need not occupy the full width of the slot or space between the lower clamping members 2| and 23. For the purpose of preventing undesirable sagging of the trousers when they are laid across the lower clamping assembly, it is quite suilcient if this temporary supporting member 3| is relatively narrow and occupies only a fraction of the space, such as indicated in Fig. l, or even narrower.

For the sake of more secure clamping of the trouser legs, the upper surfaces of the clamping members or rails 2| and 23, in those regions on which the trouser legs are laid, are preferably furnished with a covering or pad 4| of material, such as thick rubber sheeting, or sand paper, which has a high coefficient of friction.

This assemblage of base 25, clamping members or rails 2| and 23, and associated parts thus far described, is supported in any suitable way, such as from the supporting brackets or frame members 45, so as to be adjacent to the supporting surface of a table or bench preferably so located as to be at the same elevation with, and to extend closely adjacent to, the top surface of the resilient pad 4|.

Extending across the pads 4|, perpendicular to the direction of movement of the shuttle, are guide strips 41 to assist in alining the trouser legs at the proper angle. A center guide 43 also is used to indicate the midpoint between the two trouser legs.

The trouser legs are laid across the lower clamping members 2| and 23 (that is, across the resilient pad on these members) in side by side relationship to each other as indicated at 5l and 52 in Figs. 1 and 5 and as explained in greater detail hereafter. Then a. guide bar and temporary retaining bar is used for positioning the trousers accurately on the lower clamping assembly, -after which the upper clamping assembly is brought down tightly onto the lower clamping assembly to clamp the trousers rmly.

First to explain the need for and advantages of the guide bar or positioning bar, reference is made to Fig. 13, being a diagrammatic representation of the lower part of one leg of a pair of trousers, which may be the leg 5|. Originally, as supplied by the manufacturer to the retail clothing store, this trouser leg has the full length indicated in dotted lines at 53. the retail store measures the customer who is purchasing the trousers, he determines the length that the trousers should be, for this particular customer. Then the chalk mark 54 is made on each leg of the trousers to indicate the exact bottom edge of the trousers when they are finished. But beyond this mark 54, material must be left for the cuff which is conventionally formed at the bottom of the trouser leg, and lines should be marked to assist the tailor in folding thematerial neatly and smoothly to form the cuff of the proper width. Also, although enough material for forming the cuff should be left beyond the chalk mark 54, excess material not needed for the cuff should be cut oif in order to avoid a weighty and bulky lower end 0f the trousers. Transverse lines 55 and 56 are thus to be marked on each leg of the trousers to indicate the fold lines when making the cuffs, and the final cut 01T line 51 is the place where the excess material should be cut 01T.

Thus it is apparent that the location of the chalk mark 54 may vary on the material of the trousers, depending upon the height of the person purchasing the trousers. But, for any given style and width of cuil, once the location of the mark 54 has been determined, the location of the lines 55, 56, and 51 are all in xed relation to each other and at a fixed distance from the chalk mark 54.

In the conventional methods used in hand tailoring, fourteen separate operations are necessary to accomplish what is done by the present machine. In the conventional system, the tailor lays the leg of the trousers down on a suitable surface such as a table, and measures the proper distance from the basic chalk mark 54 to the location for the line 55 and then draws this chalk line 55, being one operation. Next he measures the position for and draws the chalk line 56, being a second operation. Next he measures the position of and draws the chalk line at the eutoi line 51, being a third operation. Then he turns this leg of the trousers over and draws these same three lines 55, 56, and 51 on the other or reverse face of the trouser leg, these being the fourth, fifth, and sixth operations. Then with his shears he cuts off the excess material alongA the line 51, this being the seventh operation on this one trouser leg. Then he performs the same seven operations on the other leg of the same pair of trousers, making fourteen operations in all, to do what is done very quickly and accurately by the present mechanism.

In the use of the present mechanism, the same basic chalk mark 54 is drawn, as before, to indicate the extreme lower edge of the trousers in their iinished condition. Then using this mark 54 as a guide, the operator places the marked leg of the trou-sers across or transversely to the lower clamping bars 2| and 23 (and across the temporary supporting member 3| which is in its elevated position at this time) and pulls down, into position across the trouser legs, the guide bar and temporary retaining bar 6|.

When the alterations tailor at This bar 6| is a metal bar in the nature of a' straightedge. As best seen in Figs. 1, 3, and 6, the left end of the bar (or of an extension 63 secured to the left end of the bar, in the specific form here shown) is pivoted at 65 to a hinge member 61 which is mounted to swing on the horizontal hinge pivot or pintle 69. The pivot pin 65 ex'- tends through the hinge member 61 and projects below it as indicated at 1| (Fig. 6) where it is secured to one end of a coil tension spring 13, the other end of which is anchored at 15. Thus the spring 13 constantly tends to tilt the bar 6| upwardly to its dotted line position shown in Figs. 3 and 6, and the spring is sufficiently strong to hold the bar in an up-tilted position when no de pressing force is applied to the bar. At the same time, the bar may be oscillated rearwardly or forwardly on its pivot 65, to such extent as allowed by two stop pins or limit pins 66 fixed to the hinge 61, At the right hand end of the bar 6|, just to the right of the position for the right hand one of the trouser legs 5|, there is mounted on the top surface of the clamping bar 2| a metal clip 19 open at its rear side so that the end 0f the bar 6 when properly depressed against the force of the spring 13, may be slid laterally forwardly into the open side of this clip 19, into a position in which a short pin 8| extending upwardly from the end of the bar 6| comes up through a small hole 93 in the top of the clip 19, to position the bar 6| accurately in a location wherein the front edge of the bar, acting as a straightedge, is exactly parallel to the front edge of the clamping bar` 2| and to the path of travel of the marking shuttle to be described hereafter.

Both legs of the trousers are spread out fiat, side side, across the top surface of the lower clamping members 2| and 23, in such position that the chalk mark 54 on each leg of the trousers will come at the proper location at the front edge of the bar when the bar 6| is placed as a guide, the initial positioning being made by the eye of the operator. Then the operator brings down the bar 6| from the dotted line position to the full line position of Fig. 3, and inserts the right hand end of this bar into the open side or slot of the catch 19, and in this position the forward edge of the bar serves as a guide for determining the exact location of the chalk marks 54. If necessary, the trouser legs are slightly readjusted on the apparatus so that the chalk line 54 will be exactly at the forward edge of the guide bar 6|. Small rubber pads 85 may be secured to the under surface of the bar 6| to bear on the top surfaces of the legs of the trousers to avoid any accidental slipping.

After the trouser legs have been accurately located on the lower clamping means with the aid of this locating or guiding and temporary holding Fbar 6|, the main clamping members of the upper clamping assembly are brought down on top of the trouser legs to hold them very firmly and rigidly. These main upper clamping members comprise the elongated bars 9| and 93 of about the same cross sectional dimensions as the lower clamping bars 2| vand 23, and arranged, when swung down, to overlie the respective lower bars 2| and 23. These upper bars 9| and 93 are hinged at their right hand ends on the hinges 95 and 91, respectively, to stationary members 99 and |0|, respectively, the stationary members and the clamping bars 9| and 93 being laterally separated from each other just as are the lower clamping bars 2| and 23, to provide a space andere mit them through which the shuttle may operate.

mln hars |35 and |91 are. respectively secured to theupper surfaces of the, upper clampins` bars 9i and 93, extending longituonally alms these clamping bars asv seen in Fig. and projectilzlg leftwardly beyond the left ends. of the hars, and at their extreme left. ends tha two angle bars |95. and |01l are secured toeach other. by a cross piece- |99 whichv serves also as a handle for lifting the principalmrts of the upper clamping assembly. A spring l||, secured at its left end to the clamping bar 9| at` H3. and secured at its right end to a bracket H5 Fig. 2) on the xed member 25. tends to pull the upper Clamping assembly up.. wardly and to the right on. its hinges 95 and 91. This spring lies slack when they clamping bar is thrown back in an out-of-the-way position while the trousers are being placed on or removed from the mechanism,v as shown fragmentarily in Figs. 2 and 4. When the operator grasps. the handle |09, however. and moves it leftwardly and downwardly, the upper clamping assembly is brought down on top of the previously placed trouser legs and on top of the positioning and temporary holding bar 6|, until thick pads |2l of resilient and readily compressible material such as rubber, mounted on the lower faces of the upper clamping bars 9| and 9 3, come down onto the top surface of the trouser legs and press and hold them firmly down onto the lower clampingbars 2| and 23. These resilient pads |2|, are, of course, cut away in proper locations so as not to interfere with the bar 6|.

Since it is desired always to be sure of clamping the trousers firmly throughout their entire width, .both at the hinge end and at the opposite end of the clamping means, and in spite of any variations in thickness of the cloth, the hinges 95 and 91 of the upper clamping bars are made in a form which may be described as compensating hinges; that is, hinges which will compensate or allow for any reasonable differences in thickness of trousers and reasonable variations in manufacture of the clamping parts, yet maintaining a reasonably uniform pressure across the full widths of both legs of the trousers. The construction ot these compensating hinges is best shown in Fig. 7, where it is seen that one hinge member |25 of the hinge 91 is rigidly secured in the usual manner to the fixed member Inl. But the other hinge member |21 of this hinge 91 is secured to a block |29 which, in turn,'is mounted on the lower ends o1' a pair of studs or posts |3| in the form of bolts extending upwardly through suitable openings in the clamping members 93. A coiled compression spring |33 surrounds each post |3|, and presses downwardly on the clamping member 93 and upwardly on a washer |35 held on the upper end of the post |3| by the nut |31. Thus the entire clamping member 9.3 may, if necessary, rise somewhat relative to the hinge pivot 91, but the springs |33 constantly tend to push the hinged end of the clamping member 93 down firmly against the trouser legs, when the clamping means is in closed or clamping position. 'I'he other upper clamping member 9| has its hinge 95 formed of exactly the same construction.

At the left end of the upper clamping assembly there is a holding lever or clamping lever for more easy and convenient application of holding pressure to the clamping assembly while the shuttle is operated. One hand of the operator could, of course, remain in position pressing downwardly ou4 the. handle, "t, during the openating stroke. of the. marking and cutting shuttle. but. to unsure things aY little. more convenient, for the weratorand also to. give increased pressure. it; is preferred to provide a elampms lever Mi QFigs. 5. and 12), having its. rear end hinged at |43 to axed or stationary brakt M5. A coiled tension spring |41 has one end to the bracket |55. the Spring. thence extending un over a hinged guiding portion I4! on brochet. and thence forwardly and downwardly to o. wir |5| with the lever HI. This spring lightly tends to swing the lever |4| upwardly to the dotted line position in4 Fig.- 12. but provides only enough torce to overcome the weight of this lever. After the operator has brought the upper clamping assembly 9|, 93, |99. leftwardly and downwardly onto the tops of the trouser legs, he then grasps the lever IM, pulls it forwardly and downwardly so that down.. ward feet or projections |53 and |55 on this lever press downwardly on the angle hars |05 and |91, respectively, and the operator holds this lever |9| downwardly by hand pressure applied to the forward or free end of the lever. Thus the clamping mechanism is held in rmly clamwd position by relatively light pressure on the part of the operator, due to the leverage effect.

The shuttle Mounted for reciprocation back and forth through the longitudinal space between the front and back parts or the clamping means. is a shuttle which, as above briefly mentioned, 15 1n tWO Parts, one part operating below the trouser legs to carry marking challgs for marking the bottom surfaces of the trouser legs, the other part operating above the trouser legs. to carry marking chalks for marking the top surfaces of the trouser legs. In a very general way. the shuttle is best seen in Fig. 8, and it comprises an elongated lower body III and an upper body |93, hinged to each other at their right hand ends by means of the hinge |99. The lower body is mounted on any suitable number of wheels or rollers |61 which roll on the bed 25 in the space between the rear clamping member 2| and the front clamping member 23 o1' the lower clamping assembly. The side walls of the clamping members 2| and 23 may serve as guides to contact fairly snugly with the side walls of the shuttle member |5| and hold it accurately in its intended path of travel. This lower shuttle body |9| is hollow, to provide space within it for receiving the lower chalk holding means, as will be described hereafter.

The upper body or part |63 of the shuttle is provided on its top near its left end with a bracket |1| for holding a transverse shaft |13 which overhangs the side walls of the shuttle and which carries rollers |15 which, in certain positions of the parts, ride on the angle bars |05 and |01 of the upper clamping assembly, acting as rails for these rollers.

Like the lower shuttle body ICI, the upper shuttle body |53 is also hollow, to provide space for receiving the upper chalk holding means. When the clamping mechanism is in fully clamped position, the shuttle. which normally lies to the right of the trouser legs. is grasped by a handle |19 (Figs. 4 and 5) and is pulled leftwardly so that the chalks mounted in the upper and lower shuttle bodies (as hereafter described) will be drawn across iboth the upper and lower surfaces of the clamped trouser legs, and will draw the lines 55 and l5 on both the upper and lower surfaces. When the shuttle reaches the extreme left limit of its motion, the operator releases the handle |19, also releases and throws back the clamping lever or holding lever |4 and grasps the handle |09 of the upper clamping assembly to raise it on its hinges 95 and' 91. As the operator starts to raise the upper clamping assembly, this lifts the left end of the upper shuttle body |63 because of the rollers |15 of the latter overlying the tracks |05 and |01 of the upper clamping assembly. As soon as the raising of the upper clamping assembly has progressed a little, the inclination of the tracks |05 and |01 becomes such as to cause the shuttle to move automatically rightwa-rdly to its initial or rest position, so that the operator does not need to return the shuttle manually to such position.

Chalk holding means The chalk holding means in each of the lower and upper shuttle parts |5| and |63 is essentially the same, so only the holding means in the lower shuttle part |5| will be described in detail.

Referring now to Figs. 9, 10, and 11, the lower shuttle part or body |6|, being hollow as above mentioned, is provided with a cross shaft |8| on which are rotatably mounted two hubs |83 and |85, having rightwardly extending arms |81 and |89, respectively, secured to them. Alongside each of these arms |81 and |89, throughout part of its length but not the entire length, is a bar |9| and |93, respectively. U-shaped clips |95 and |91, respectively, embrace the right hand ends of the members |81 and |9|, and the members |89 and |93, respectively, to prevent lateral separation of these pairs of members at their right ends. These U-shaped clips may be removed for quick separation of the bars when the piece of chalk is to be renewed or repositioned. Near the left hand end of the bar |9| is a transverse stud extending through a hole in the bar |81 and threaded at its end to receive a wing nut 203, a coil compression spring 205 surrounding the stud 20| between the two bars |81 and |9|. Similarly, the bar or arm |89 has xed to it a transverse stud 201 which extends through a hole in the bar |93 and is threaded at its outer end to receive a wing nut 209, and a coil compression spring 2|| surrounds-the stud between the two bars |89 and |93. v

Between the bars |81 and |9|, and intermediate between the clip |95 and the stud 20|, there are located a relatively thin and slightly compressible ru-bber sheet or pad 2|5 and a substantially thicker and more compressible pad 2|1, such as of sponge rubber. Between these two pads is located the chalk 2|9, in the form of a relatively thin plate-like piece of hard or firm chalk of the kind commonly used by tailors. The upper edge of this chalk piece 2|9 projects upwardly substantially above the upper edges of the holding bars |81 and |9|.

Similarly, between the other two chalk holding bars |89 and |93, there is the thin rubber pad 22| and the thicker and more compressible pad 229 of sponge rubber or the like, retaining be tween them the chalk piece 225 which, as before, extends upwardly a substantial distance above the top edges of its holding bars |89 and |93. As seen in Fig. l0, the upper left corner of this chalk piece 225 is substantially rounded rather than being sharp or angular, and the same is true of the other chalk piece 2|9 which lies directly behind the piece 225 in Fig. 10.

Due to the arms 81 and |89 being xed to the hubs |33 and |85 which areV rotatable on the cross shaft |8|, it is apparent that both sets of the chalk holding arms can swing upwardly and downwardly in vertical planes. Each hub |83 and |85 has a lug or eye 23| extending downwardly below the shaft |8|, and each of these lugs or eyes 23| is secured to the left end of a coiled tension spring 233, the right hand end of each spring being hooked into an opening in its own individual metal strip 255 which is provided with a series of holes 231, any one of which may be impaled at Will on an upstanding stud 239 suitably secured in the shuttle body |3I. The tension of these springs 233 will tend to turn the hubs |83 and |85 in a counterclockwise direction when viewed as in Fig. 10, and thus will constantly tend to raise the chalks 2|9 and 225 to press them against the lower surfaces of the trouser legs as the shuttle carries the chalks transversely across the trouser legs. If the line marked by the chalk is` too faint, the operator can adjust the spring to greater tension by reaching inside the shuttle body and placing a different hole 231 of the strip 235 over the impaling pin 239, to pull the spring 233 tighter and thus to apply greater force to lift the chalk against the trouser legs. The maximum upward swing of the chalk-carrying arms is limited by a ledge or limit stop 24| on the shuttle body |ii|y which overlies the free ends of the arms.

The above mentioned post 239 is preferably mounted on a metal strip 243 which is separate from the body |6| and which is secured to a small nat plate 244 having upstanding flanges 245 which constitute bearings for the cross shaft ll, the parts 244-245 being slidable out of the shuttle body |6I, so that the chalk holding parts constitute a sub-assembly readily removable from the shuttle.

When the chalk becomes worn down so that it should be repositioned to extend farther above the upper edge of its holding bars, or if it is necessary to renew the chalk piece entirely, the operator simply grasps the bars |81 and 9|, or

|89 and |93, as the case may be, near their right hand ends, and compresses them toward each other enough to permit removal of the clip |95 0r |91, respectively, so that the bars may then be separated and the chalk may be repositioned or renewed. If the chalk should be clamped more firmly, the wing nut 203 and 209, as the case may be, is simply tightened.

In case it is desired to vary the spacing between the chalk lines 55 and 55, to provide for making the trouser cuffs wider or narrower, this may be done to some extent by reversing the thin and thick pads 2|5 and 2|1 (or 22| and 223, as the case may be) so that the thick pad lies on the opposite side of the chalk from the side on which it previously lay. Or if greater variation is needed, the spacing washers 241 (Fig. 1l) between the bearing flanges 245 and the chalk carrying arms may be removed from those locations and be placed, instead, between the hubs |83 and |85; or various spacing washer combinations may -be used between the flanges 245 and the arms |81 and |89, and between the two hubs |83 and |85. For such adjustments, the shaft |85 is readily removed longitudinally as soon as the chalk-holding sub-assembly is removed from the shuttle body.

As already indicated, the chalk holding mechanism for the'upper shuttle part or body |63 may be constructed exactly the same way, and so need not be described in detail. As in the case of the lower Ichalk holding means, the -cross vshaft in the .upper shuttle body lies -to the left .of the chalk .pieces themselves, .and the .chalk holding arms extend rightwardly from this shaft, so that as the shuttle moves leftwardly ion its eiective or marking stroke, any undue resistance to the movement of the chalk, or catching of the-chalk on Ithe cloth, will tend automatically .to shift the chalk upwardly away from the surface of the cloth (or downwardly, in the case of the lower chalk pieces) ,so as to relieve the catching or difllculty. The .upper chalks are indicated in Fig. 8 at 249. The cross shaft of lthe upper chalk holding means is, however, positioned :a little to the right ofthe crossshaft |.8| of the lower chalk holding means. so that the upper chalks 249 are oli'set to .the right of the lower .chalks 219 `and 225. Thus the .upper chalks press down against the trouser legs where they are underlain and backed up .by a solid dat surface of the top Yof Vthe lower .shuttle part, and the lower chalks press .up against the trouser legs where they are overlain and Ibacked .up by a solid portion of the bottom surface .of the upper Ashuttle part.

Guard means It is desirable to avoid contact of the cha-lk with `the .trousers while `the .shuttle is being restored or returned rightwardly to its linitial position. For this purpose, both the lower and upper shuttle parts |6| and |63 are provided with resilient guard means to tend to hold the trousers out .01' the pathof .travel .of the chalks. The guard means is convenientlyin the form of spring members, preferably of spring wire, .tending to press the .cloth away from the chalks, but capable .of being displaced by slight pressure to allow the cloth to come into contact with the chalk at the proper time.

Referring especially to Figs. 8, ,9, and 1Q, the lower shuttle .body |6| ls provided with a suitable bearing or journal25| in which are mounted the laterally bent ends of the 4guard wires 253, four of which are provided, two lying on opposite sides of but closely adjacent to the plane of each of the chalks 2|9 and 225. The guard wires 253 are bowed so as to extend from their bearings 25| upwardly and rightwardly, normally .in a position a little above the upper edges of the chalks 2|8 and 22.5, and on rightwardly a substantial distance beyond these chalks, the ends of each wire then being bent sharply downwardly and entering a guide slot 255 in the upper wall of the body |61. These ends which enter the guide slot are 'bent back upon themselves at a little more than -a right angle, so that the downwardly projecting ends 251 V(Fig. 'l0\) somewhat underlie the top wa'll of the body |61, "to resist any accidental upward disengagement of the right ends of lthe guide wires out of the slot 255.

When 4there is no downward pressure on these guide wires 253, they normally occupy the vup- -wandly bowed position shown in full lines in m. 10, as well as in Fig. 8. When, however, there is any substantial resistance to such upward bowing, as when the shuttle is moved past the trouser legs while the trouser 'legs are rmly held in the clamping means, the trouser legs cannot yield in an upward direction, both because they are ilrmly clamped and because they are backed up by the fiat surface of the opposite shuttle part, and so the resilient bowed guide wires 253 yield ina downward direction and hatten out to a position somewhat as shown in dotted lin in Fig. 10. and the chalks 2 I9 and 225 are depressed to the dotted line position, and they irmly lcontact with and draw the markings or lines on the trouser cloth. But when the shuttle vreaches the left end of its operating stroke. having drawn the necessary lines, the clamping means is released as above indicated, so tint during the return or rightward stroke of the shuttle the trousers are no longer rmly clamped. and the vcloth can give or can be displaced in an upward direction by the resiliency of the lguard wires 253, with the result that on the return stroke these guard wires are in their normal yor undisplaced Positions and hold the cloth up wardly at an elevation above the chalk.

The upper guard wires 28| (Fig. 8) are tonned exactly the same way and mounted exactly the same way in the upper shuttle body or part |63, except that the upper construction is, of course, tumed upside down relative to Ythe lower construction, so that the wires 22| are normally bowed downwardly rather than upwardly. But the function and operation is the same as in the case of the lower guard wires 253.

In addition to the functions above desmilhod. the guard wires also tend to hold the upper shuttle part slightly elevated so .that the advancingleft end of the upper part will not catch fon the trousers. After it passes the edge of the inousers, the operator presses nrmly .down on the upper shuttle 'part during the rest o! its leftward movement.

Cutting means By a very simple change the shuttle could, of course, be made somewhat wider so as to 'accom- 4modate three marking chalks instead of two. and the machine could 'thus be made to draw a. third chalk line at the location 51 (Fig. 13), to serve as a guide for cutting of! the encens cloth by a hand cutting operation. But instead of drawing this third chalk line, it is preferred actually to cut the cloth lby means 0f this machine, so as to avoid the cutting by hand which the tailor would otherwise have to do. Hence the present machine is provided with motor driven cutting `means which severs the cloth at the line 51 (Without actually drawing any such line on the cloth) when the shuttle is operated.

In front o1' and slightly below the level oi' kthe base 25, the machine is provided with a longitudinal track 21| (Figs. 4 and 12) suitably a-nd iixedly lsupported from any convenient framework (not shown in detail) so as to be exactly parallel to the direction of movement of thc shuttle. The track is conveniently formed by a pair of angle hars mounted in parallel relation to each other, with one flange .of each angle bar extending horizontally toward the other one (as seen in Fig. 12) and with the .other ange or leg extending upwardly. A small carriage 213 is mounted for longitudinal movement along this track 21|. being supported by bottom rollers and guided by side rollers engaging the flanges of the angle bars to eliminate any substantial `lateral play 0f the carriage as it travels .along the track.

On this carriage 213 is a small electric motor 215, the armature shaft of which is arranged at right angles to the direction of travel ot the carriage, and the armature shaft projects rearwardly from the motor casing or housing and is provided at its rear end with a circular cutting blade 211 having sharp edges which, when the blade is being rapidly rotated, will cut through any reasonable thickness of cloth with which it comes into contact. The position of the various parts is such that, as seen in Figs. 4 and 12, the upper edge of the cutting blade 211 is just slightly above the horizontal plane of the trouser legs 5| and 52 when the latter are clamped in the clamping mechanism. Also, the blade 211 lies just in front of the front edge of the lower clamping bar 23, and at the proper distance from the plane of travel of the chalks so that it will out the cloth at the line 51, relative to the chalk lines 55 and 56 which are to be drawn by the chalks.

The electric motor 215 may be supplied with current from any conventional flexible electric cord, not shown, plugged into a convenient electric outlet. The carriage 213 and its motor and cutting blade may be reciprocated back and forth by means of a separate handle as a separate operation, but in the preferred form of mechanism the motor carriage is operatively connected to the shuttle so that when the operator moves the shuttle, the motor carriage and cutting blade are automatically moved with it. To this end, a long and relatively stiff rod 28| (Fig. 4) is xed to the carriage 213 and extends rightwardly therefrom, through various joints provided with adjustable clamps 283, to a sumcient rightward distance to clear the right end of a slot formed in the base when the carriage 213 and the shuttle are in their extreme leftward positions. Then the connecting rod extends upwardly as at 285, to reach an elevation above the base 25, and then leftwardly as at 281 to an adjustable clamp connection 289 on the lower shuttle part IGI. So whenever the shuttle is moved leitwardly, the rigid rod connection 28|, 285, 281 will cause corresponding leftward movement of the carriage 213 and the cutting blade 211; and when the shuttle moves rightwardly through its return stroke, this will cause corresponding rightward movement of the motor carriage and cutting blade.

In order to provide an accurate and neat cut of the fabric, the cloth should be clamped on both sides of the cut, so that it is stretched taut in the place where the blade will engage it. It is seen from Fig. 12 that the trousers are clamped on both sides of the plane of operation of the blade 211. As there indicated, one rubber pad 2| on the upper clamping member 93 comes down onto the trousers to the rear of the blade 211 (that is, to the left of the blade when viewed as in Fig. l2) and another clamping pad I2I on the same member 93 comes down on the trousers a little to the front of the plane of the cutting blade, both of these rubber pads pressing the trousers firmly down onto the friction material 4| on the lower clamping assembly. To the rear of the plane of the cutting blade 211, the lower clamping member 23 is stationary. But in front of or forwardly of the plane of operation of the blade 211, it is desirable that the lower clamping member be movable in order to obtain access, when necessary, to the motor and cutting blade, for adjustment, sharpening, oiling, etc. Hence that part of the lower clamping assembly which is forwardly of the plane of operation of the blade 211 is in the form of a shelf or board 29| (Figs. l, 4, 5, and 12) which is hinged at 293 to a stationary part 285 of the apparatus, and which, when the movable parts are retracted to their rightward position, may be swung upwardly on this hinge 293 to obtain access to the motor, cutting blade, etc. In its lower or normal position,

the part 29| forms a forward continuation of the lower clamping mechanism, having a top surface which is level with that of the lower clamping bars 2| and 23, and part of the friction pad 4| overlies the member 29|, other parts of this friction pad being on the top surfaces of the members 2| and 23. There is just a slight space or gap between the forward edge of the member 23 and the rear edge of the 'member 29|, as well seen in Fig. 12. A metal guard 30| of inverted U-shape covers this space and protects against accidental contact With the blade, in the regions to right and left of the trouser legs, as seen in Fig. 1.

Operation The operation of each part of the mechanism has been described in connection with the construction of that part. However, it may be convenient at this point to summarize briefly the operation of the mechanism as a Whole.

rhe tailor after measuring the customer, marks the chalk mark 54 on both legs of the trousers, to indicate the extreme lower edge of the trousers in their finished condition. This marking 54 may be done in some other location, before the trousers are brought to the present machine, or it may be done at the location of the present machine, by the operator of this machine. As already indicated, the present machine is preferably mounted at the edge of a large bench or table which is flush with or at the same level with the pads 4i on the lower clamping assembly, and the legs of the trousers may be spread out and measured and the marks 54 may be placed thereon while on this table or bench immediately adjacent to the present machine, and the trouser legs may then be inserted into the present machine.

Assuming now that the clamping parts are in their open position, the trouser legs are laid substantially parallel to each other and across the lower clamping assembly of the machine as indicated in dotted lines at 5| and 52 in Fig. 1, with the right edge of each leg placed at the proper angle to its perpendicular guide strip 41.

The operator, by his eye, judges the proper position of the trousers, and then swings the bar 6| down on its hinge 69, onto the top of the trousers, readjusting the position of the trousers if necessary so that the chalk lines 54 on both legs of the trousers lie exactly at the front edge of the positioning bar or guide bar 6|, the right end of which is caught underand accurately positioned in the clip 19. When the trousers have been accurately positioned, the upper clamping assembly is swung clown onto the lower clamping assembly, securely clamping both trouser legs between these two clamping assemblies. This is done by grasping the handle |89 of the upper clamping assembly and pulling it leftwardly and downwardly on the hinges and 91, from a swung back position illustrated fragmentarily in Figs. 3 and 4 to a'position down flat on the trousers as shown in Fig. 5 kand in dotted lines in Fig. 3, and the clamping lever I il is pulled forwardly and downwardly so as to come down on top of the arms |55 and |01 rof the upper clamping assembly, pushing down on these arms to force the upper clamping assembly very firmly down onto the trousers and onto the lower clamping assembly. At this time, the compensating hinges 95 and 91 of the upper clamping assembly can give a little, so as to make sure that the trousers are thoroughly clamped throughout the entire width of the trouser legs and to insure l that the thickness of the trousers near the hinges 9| and 9! will not prevent the far end of the upper clamping assembly from coming all the way down onto the trousers. A guide 335 (Figs. l and 3) helps to aline the clamping assembly accurately as it comes down.

The operator then grasps the handle |19 of the shuttle (which has been at its extreme right hand position) and pulls this handle one full stroke leftwardly as far as it will go, its limit of motion being dened by contact with the bumper or abutment 30! (Fig. 5). The left end of the shuttle hits the right end of the support member 3| and swings this support member left- Wardly and downwardly, against the force of its spring 35, so that the shuttle passes over it. During this leftward stroke of the shuttle, the chalks 2|! and 225 will draw the two chalk lines 55 and '56 across the lower surfaces of both legs of the trousers, and the other chalks 249 mounted in the upper shuttle body |63 will likewise draw the lines 55 and 56 across the upper surfaces of both legs of the trousers. Concomitantly with the drawing of these chalk lines, the motor carriage 218 will be traversed leftwardly by means of its connection 28|, 285, etc., with the shuttle, and the rapidly rotating cutting blade 211 driven by the motor 215, will cut off the excess cloth at the lower ends of both legs of the trousers, making the cut along the line indicated diagrammatically at 51 in Fig. 13.

At the conclusion of this leftward stroke, both legs of the trousers will have been severed to remove excess material, and both legs will have been marked on both sides with the necessary chalk lines to enable a tailor to form the cuff accurately, neatly, and quickly. The operator lets go the handle |19 of the shuttle at the conclusion of the leftward stroke, and lifts the clamping lever |4| to its upstanding position shown in dotted lines in Fig. 12, in which position it is retained by the springs |41. Then he grasps the handle |09 of the upper clamping assembly and lifts this handle. The lifting of the upper clamping assembly also lifts the upper shuttle body |63 because of the shuttle body wheel overlying the upper clamping assembly, and as soon as the angularity or pitch of the upper clamping assembly reaches a sufiicient magnitude, the shuttle automatically runs rightwardly or down hill, restoring itself and the cutting mechanism to their initial or rest positions. As the shuttle moves rightwardly, the trouser legs by this time having been unclamped, the now loose fabric is deected by the guard wires 253 and 26| of the shuttle so that the chalks 2|9, 225, and 249 do not contact with the fabric of the trousers on the return stroke. Thus the line previously drawn during the leftward stroke is not smudged or blurred during the return stroke.

About the time the shuttle reaches the rightward limit of its travel to its normal rest position, the operator, continuing the lifting of the handle |09 of the upper clamping mechanism, has gotten this upper clamping mechanism rather fully opened, throwing it back to some such position as indicated fragmentarily in Figs. 3 and 4. The bar 6| is then unhooked at its right end from the clip 19, and elevated to the dotted line position shown in Figs. 3 and 6, in which upstanding position it is held by the spring 13. The trouser legs are now fully released from the machine, ready to be lifted oi and handed to the tailor who is to fold and sew the cuffs. The

16 next-,pair of trousemmaynowbephcedinle machine and the operation my be repeated.

In ready made clothing stores which do a substantial plume of business, the present machine is a very simple, satisfactory, economii, and speedy way of marking and cutting tl trouser legs to the dimensions of the individual customer, as must be done every time a pair of trousers is sold. The time saved as compared with the conventional tedious methods of hand marking and hand cutting can well be imagined, where a large volume of such work is handied.

It is seen from the foregoing disclosure that the above mentioned objects of the invention .are admirably fulfilled. It is to be understood tint the foregoing disclosure is given by way o! illustrative example only, rather than by way of limitation, and that without departing from the invention, the details may be varied within the scope of the appended claims. Also it will be appreciated that many of the principles and fea tures of construction may be advantageously spplied to mechanism for marking or cutting things or articles other than trousers; e. g., other articles of clothing, as well as articles made of wood. metal, fabric, etc., in general.

What is claimed is:

l. Apparatus for marking the legs of trousers, including means comprising a supporting bed for holding both legs of a pair of trousers in fiat condition in side by side relation to each other, reciprocating means mounted for reciprocation in a path of travel transverse to the legs of said trousers when so held, chalking means mounted on and movable bodily with said reciprocating means for marking a plurality of parallel chalk lines on both the upper and lower surfaces of both legs of said trousers during a single reciprocation of said reciprocating means, friction surface clamping means for contacting with said trouser legs to clamp them substantially immovably during the marking of said chalk lines, a shiftable guide bar pivoted at one end to said supporting bed on one side of said trouser legs and adapted to be swung to a position overlying said trouser legs to assist in placing them in position for clamping by said clamping means, and latching means on said bed on the opposite side of said trouser legs for latching the opposite end of said guide bar.

2. Apparatus for marking the legs of trousers, including clamping means for holding both legs of a pair of trousers relatively taut in flat condition 'in side by side relation to each other, a shuttle mounted for reciprocation in a path of travel transverse to the legs of said trousers when so held, said shuttle having a lower part movable in a path below said trouser legs and an upper part movable in a path above said trouser legs, said lower and upper parts of said shuttle being hinged to each other to be opened relative to each other for easier placement of the trouser legs, and separate chalking means on each shuttle part including a clamp for holding a. piece of chalk in position to be drawn across the trouser legs as the shuttle is reciprocated, a lever on which said chalk clamp is mounted, said lever being pivotally mounted on its respective shuttle part, and spring means tending to swing the lever to press the chalk resiliently against the trousers.

3. Apparatus as defined in claim 2, further including a resilient guard tending to hold the trousers away from the chalk, said guard being resiliently shiftable to an ineffective position by 17 the pressure of the trousers when the latter are clamped in said clamping means.

4. Apparatus as defined in claim 3, further including an interconnection between said clamping means and said shuttle to tend to open the shuttle parts relatively to each other when said clamping means is unclamped.

5. Apparatus as defined in claim 4, in which the unclamping of said clamping means also tends to move said shuttle toward one end o! its 10 path of travel.

6. Apparatus as dened in claim 5, further including a motor, a rotary cutting blade driven by said motor, and means interconnecting said blade to said shuttle to move the blade across the legs of the trousers to cut said legs when the shuttle is reciprocated.

18 7. Apparatus as defined in claim 6, in which said clamping means clamps said trouser legs tightly on both sides of the path of travel of said blade during a cutting movement thereof.

GEORGE R. MCALLASTER.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 554,677 Gury Feb. 18, 1896 1,578,477 Smith et al Mar. 20, 1926 1,605,349 Jocque et a1 Nov. 2, 1926 1,742,047 Moss Dec. 31, 1929 1,986,791 Butts Jan. 8, 1935 1,999,063 Smith Apr. 23, 1935 2,083,577 Perry June l5, 1937 

